Friday Prayer at Ban Ho Masjid



Standing on the right is the owner of a restaurant
and active in Masjid comittee.



In red shirt in centre of Masjid between the two pillars
is the same tourist I met on the Chao Phrya ferry ride.



Everyday immediately after Fajr prayer these students
of the Madrasa will recite the Quran in front of the Imam ( in white)


Ban Ho Masjid ChiangMai



Ban Ho Masjid



Prayer benches for the disable



Chairs for the disable



Not for the healthy



The raised end for prostrating
.................................................................................

Day 10 : 22 Nov 2008. The Ban Ho Masjid Yunanese Community.
Day 11 : 23 Nov 2008.

During during prayer time we socialise with the Muslim community of Chiang Mai at Bah Ho Mosque.About 40-50 peolpe were usually seened attending the congregation daily for Zohor and Asar prayer. Majority are Chinese of Yunanese origin and some are Thai Mynmar and Bengali mixed by inter marriage.There were few people about 10-15 during Fajr and about 25 students of the madrasa attached to the mosque.

Before and after prayer people can be seen engaged in casual and some in serious but quiet discusion respecting the aura of the House of Allah.

According to the Imam who came from Kunming about 25 years ago there about 12000 Muslim in Chiang Mai province out of which about 7000 live in the city area. There are 17 Masjids and 4 are in the city. 8 of these masjids belong to the Chinese Muslims.The 4 Masjid in Chiang Mai are :- 1. Ban Ho Masjid
2. Changklan Masjid
3. At Taqwa Masjid
4. Champer Masjid

Sometime we saw some women attending noon prayers at a seperate hall for women and some attending the Friday prayer.

Ban Ho community are followers of the Hanafi school standing up when the azan is called peculiar of the Muslims of Kunming,China.After giving salam the Imam recite a short doa followed by the followers giving salam and proceed to perform the prescribed solat sunah accompanying the fardh prayer.After finishing the solat sunat the imam again recite a longer doa marking the end of the congregation and they disperse.

In my opinion this method of prayer is much pratical than the Shafiees of Malaysia where after giving salam the imam induldge in long wirid before making the doa.

What amuse me is seeing several chairs and benches of different design located near the wall at the end of each saf ( prayer row ) for the disable who cannot stand upright during prayer.These are used for those who sit during prayer yet enabling then to prostrate on the benches instead of the floor thus qualifying the term sujud.The disable of Malaysia wound sit on floor on chair but only give isysharah during sujud.



( to be contd)

From Left : Ramly, Guroon the Gurkha , Ali Rotee and in the far rear is Alis wife.

Day 9 : 21 Nov 2008. Guroon The Gurkha and Ali Rotee .

After adapting ourselves to our new environment around Yunanese Ban Ho Masjid we notice that many people are fond of Ali the owner of small coffee shop who make excellent tea with fresh cow milk.Me like the many locals and repeat visitors used to hang at Alis for our tea joint. Here you meet travellers, locals, businessmen ,intellectuals, political anaylists and ex hippies who have lost track of the hippies trail of the 70s. Its has the aura of Indian Coffee House at Cannaught Circus in New Dehli.People relax for tea get to know each other exchange ideas and info.

Enter Guroon the Gurkha.

I was quietly enjoying my tea when Guroon came and sat next to me. He gave Sawaade Kap greeting with a smile and talk to me in Thai. I knew he must have assumed that I am a local as many others do.Realising that I did not understand him I told him that I came from Malaysia and had just arrived. I mistook him for a travel agent tout looking for tourists who might need a guide for their day trip around Chiang Mai. We didnt talk much but he exchange talk with Ali and left.

Next morning he came again and ordered tea after giving his usual Sawaadee greeting. He was a burly man in his mid 40s stout but not tall.After exchanging talk I was surprised that to learn that Guroon is well traveled having spent time in Kuala Lumpur, Pinang, Singapore, New Dehli, Burma and Kabul.He was in the Gurkha army and had served under the UN.I touch and feel his muscles to tell what a tough guy he is at which he admit doing workout ang jogging every morning.He was cheerful friendly and was all the time undermining Ali jokingly. Enjoyed talking to him but he was leaving for Bangkok tonight on business. He was renting a furnished apartment nearby with fan and ac plus laundry for 3000 Thai Bhat per month.Good tips for people who want to stay longer in Chiang Mai.

Before he left he insisted on paying for for the six of us and openly told everybody that he will be meeting Ali at their secret meeting place tonight, the Snooker Centre.Everybody burst into laughter coz all know that Ali is a pious Moslem doing his 5 times prayer in the mosque and went back straight to his family after closing shop. Ali was lost for word and only managed to smile back at Guroon knowing that he will come back again with his mischief.

Road to Lamphun ( Yap or Yang Tress believe to >100 yrs old)



This is an old postcard of the road from ChiangMai / Lamphun to the south.Although the tress still lined up the road some have been cut down some spiked with chemical to make way for development.After so many years have passed I still remember this beautiful road with cherished memories of my first travel here in 1973. So thats was ChiangMai only to those who have seen.........


Day 7 , 8, : (19, 20, Nov 2008) : At Ben Guesthouse ( Shoes Off Please )

Ben Guesthouse is on the east side of Ping River while Ban Ho Mosque is situated on the west side. Although clean and quite atmosphere with nice garden it is 20 min. walk to the mosque by crossing the bridge.

It has always been my style of traveling to locate the mosque first at every new destination because that is where you will find the Muslim community and Muslim foods.Then I will look for the nearest room around the locality so that lodging food and prayer come easy.

Eg. Fragrance Guesthouse Singapore is next to Abdul Ghafoor Mosque in Little India Backpacker area.

Hanoi Guesthouse in Hanoi Old Quater backpacker area is 10 min. walk to Masjid AnNoor the only Mosque in Hanoi. (2007)

Turkey Guesthouse next to Blue Mosque Istanbul.( 1975)

Dali Old Xing Yue Hotel Muslim owner right in Mosque compound Dali Yunnan China.( 2005)

Many Hotels and Guesthouse around Jama Masjid Old Dehli ( 5 x there)

Comfort Motel 5 min. to Masjid Zahir Alor Star Malaysia....

Amir Kabir Hotel Tehran ( 1978 )

Herat Hotel, Herat Afghanistan.( 1974)

Mercedes Hotel Kabul....... ( 1974,1975,1978) so the list goes on....

Not least Dar Horib Al_Shamia 5-10 min to Masjidil Haram, Mecca. ( 2000 )

And sure enough this time Rattana Guesthouse on 3/5 Charoenprated Rd. Soi 2 is 5 minutes walk from Yunnanese Ban Ho Masjid. Rattana offer twin beds room for 300 Thai Bhat will neat clean room and bath room. My second home Chiang Mai.

There are 4 Halal Yunanese restaurants around Ban Ho Masjid. My favorite hangout Ali Rotee Shop.

Typical scene to Chiangmai

Day 6 : 18 Nov 2008. On the train to Chiang Mai

After our Fajr prayer at Chkrabongse Mosque we had a quick breakfast and packed some fruits for the journey.Banana is a must for Ramly while I pick some big red Washington apples, juicy Chinese oranges and Thai guava as we knew that fruits makes good substitute for rare halal food. My small day bag was still loaded with pitted prunes, biscuits and tit bits which I stocked before leaving home. We climbed into the train released our mountainous load of luggages ,slump into the seats smiling knowing that for the next 12 hrs its the train that will carry our backpacks while we sit and relax and enjoy the beautiful scenery away from all those sour faces that we had to meet everyday at home .

The train finally move at 8:30 am right on time. Good Bye Bangkok. Good Bye Sour Faces. Good bye think big AJKKKg ( Local Village Action Committee ). Good Bye Mercedes Snobs. Good bye Mr.Chairman This.... Mr.Chairman That....... I am happy to be on my own in a place no one knows. We are just speck of dusts of an unknown little place in this world.You won't know and will NEVER ever know who you really are until you hit the road.

Ayuthiya the old capital of Siam

About 84 km north of Bangkok our train stop at Ayuthia. When the people get down the train I saw some serious and intellectual looking travelers alighted holding the travelers bible ( Lonely Planet ) in their hand.They must be some kind of a history freaks doing Phd research otherwise they wouldnt go to Ayuthia.

Phitsanuluk. I don't know whats there.

Many travelers get down at Phitsanuluk on the way to Chiang Mai.I must admit I don't know why though I wish that I knew. I hate carrying my Lonely Planet Thailand 1995 edition and I want my hands to be free ( at the expense of losing good info). Again I think these guys must be from Harvard doing research on the whole of Thailand . They look like they will go everywhere including all the hills and valleys.Great travelers carrying 50 kgs backpack.

Chiang Mai.........It makes our heart throb.

Our train finally arrived Chiang Mai at 8.30 pm and passengers quickly disappeared except for tourist and travelers who rush to the information counter .There were about four young Thais on duty at the info counter all very helpful giving us free city map showing guesthouse location and even making phone call if rooms are available.

We got a room at Ben Guesthouse near Ping River for 250 Thai Bhat and rushed to Anusan Market for our dinner. There is a Yunanese Muslim restaurant and 3 smaller stalls selling halal foods. Other than the Night Bazaar practically all shops are closed at this time of the night. Chiang Mai sleeps early and me too.

(to be contd)

Typical Burmese girl facial make up.

Day 5 : 17 Nov.2008 Good Bye Bangkok

After seeing enough of Bangkok we decided to leave for Chiang Mai tomorrow.Went to Hua Lamphong Railway Station n bought our tickets to Chiang Mai on 2nd class sleeping berth which cost 611 Thai Bhat each.While I was busy getting infomation Ramly strike a conversation with a mass com. student doing her practical at the station leaving our luggages unattended.Lucky enough our bags were still at where we left it.

Since the train leaves next morning around 8 am we went to another Malay Muslim locality around Darul Aman Mosque at Petchburi Soi 7. Had lunch and prayed Zohor there.About 6 restaurants selling South Thai Malay dishes and several smaller eating stalls selling noodle soups.Plenty of choice for the choosy type.Me I eat what is infront of me.Not very particular as long as basic hygiene is observed and food prepard hot.

Theres another Indian Pakistani and Thai Muslim locality around Haroon Mosque on Charoenkrung Rd. not far from the Central Post Office. The only setback is few guesthouses and plenty hotels for the straight and square travellers.

At night we spent looking for used Lonely Planet book on Laos as we want to include Laos in our iternary. We found out that those of the recent edition are rather expensive and decided not to buy.Meanwhile Ramly is grabbing whatever soveniers he could get in Bangkok including sandals made of paddy hays, baggy Thai pants and cotton Thai kurta style shirt.Not only that he succeded in persuading me buy a white cotton kurta and manage to make the beautiful Mymar salesgirl Oma part with her telephone number.Since the first day in Bangkok he's forever buying something.I told him Ramly you're not travelling, you're shopping.Well he said this the opportunity ( the phone number safe in his hand ) it may not come again.

These tourists look familiar......cruising the Chao Phrya eh!



Mmm !.... sure I know this guy well.

Day 4 : 16 Nov 2008 Around Bangkok and Chao Phrya Ferry Cruise

I feel there is no need of me to describe Bangkok.Its a big city with so much to see n places to visit.
Each visitor has their own liking.I particularly like cruising the ferry taxi on the Chao Phrya river.

I have cruised the river twice before but this time I noticed Bangkok is sinking under the water level.High walls have been built on each side of the river to prevent water entering into shops, market and river side residential homes.One market near the China Town area is dark and almost deserted. Water pumps were being used to pump water out.

A military depo by the river had sand bags placed aroud the compound and in a particular park people can no longer sit on the benches .The viewing compound where people used to watch the ferry pass by is already under 6'' of water.

We stopped at the pier to China Town.Makeshifts walkways were erected above the water level on the pier platform so that commuters can board and alight the ferries.

It may be the high tide or much rainfall upstream.We inquired from a local who had just finished his excercise in the park and he said Yes ! Bangkok is sinking. Global Warming.Beach Cities Get Ready.

Layout map of Jatujak Market


Mobile Newspaper Vendor Khao San Rd.


Darul Aman Mosque Petchburi Rd.Soi 7


Hungry Travellers savouring Falafel
on Khao San Rd.


All the Rafta Goods made of Hemp


The Magnificent Teh Tarik


Jatujak Mobile Tea Stall


A lone lost tourist found in Jatujak Mkt

View of Chakrabongse Masjid & Ground Floor Prayer Hall


Day 3: 15 Nov 2008 Khao San Road and Chkrabongse Masjid

Like most other travellers Khao San Rd area is the place to requipe get information relax refresh and watch travellers come and go.To see Bangkok get a good city map n it will list out all the intresting places to visit.

No halal food around Khao San Rd except for the mobile rotee canai at the entrance of Rambuttri Soi 1 and 7 eleven outlet for hot coffee,tea n milo.You can find halal muslims food nearby at the entrance gate of Chkrabongse Masjid ( Chkrabongse Road) on a lane called Trouk Surau . Ask around for ' surau ' and they will direct you to the mosque.The surau is near the Nana Market which sells fresh fruits and vege in the morning and theres a Muslim food court at nearby Thanon Tani Rd. Rojak,Biryani,Ox Tail Soup,Rice and Rotee etc are available. In the evening theres 2 stalls selling deep fry tasty keropok lekor or fish sausage.We survive on these foods during our 4 days stay in Bangkok.

Jatujak Sunday Market

After breakfast we spend the whole afternoon at Jatujak Sunday Market.It covers an area of about 30 acres having 26 sections,10,000 shops and 200,000 customers each day with a turnover of over30 million Bhat or USD 750,000 a day.This market operates only in the weekend a big attraction both for local and foreigners.Its sells everything under the sun and shop till you drop affair probably the biggest market in the world and undisputed King of all Markets in Bangkok. For Muslim visitors theres about 10 eating stalls that I saw and a small surau or prayer room .They are all situated not far from the main clock tower.I recommend Kah Jak Restaurant a neat little eatery serving Thai hot dish with a western touch and an Asean price. Inspite of the crowd u only need to wait about 5 minutes and your steaming mouth watering ala carte dish is served. Efficient,clean, tasty and Asean price.......with some Western customers. And thats not all.The tables are recycle sewing machine tables plus the foot pedals.You simply cannot resist the temptation to try!

Hualamphong Action Centre




Hualamphong Railway Station Main Hall



Sign showing Muslim Prayer Room at Station



Day 2 :14Nov 2008 Bangkok Hua Lamphong Railway Station.


Our train finally arrived at Bangkok Hua Lamphong Railway Station, a grand and beautiful building of the Italian Renaissance style completed in 1916.According to Wikipedia Hua Lamphong has 14 platforms,26 tickets booth serves 140 trains and approximately 60000 passengers a day.On the left side of the main hall you can see a sign showing a muslim prayer room on the upstairs.Just behind the information counter is a food court which also has a stall selling halal food for Muslims.There's a paid toilet n shower to clean up yourself after a long journey.


From the stations there are several ways to get to the city centre, bus, metered taxi,tut tut n others. We took a taxi straight to Rambuttri Road Soi 1 near the world famous Khao San Road the travellers and backpackers community hub.Taxi cost 61 Thai Bhat to Khao San Rd. and most guesthouse are full so we checked in at Four Sons Inn GuestHouse for 550 Bhat a night on the ground floor room.Room clean but a little upscale for budget traveller.Best rate is 300 Thai Bhat a night for twin beds.

My short travel in North Thailand

Sungai Kolok/Bangkok Train Ticket & Envelope





Sungai Kolok Railway Officers on duty

Day 1, 13 Nov 2008. Sungai Kolok to Bangkok

With a friend Ramly I did a one month trip to north Thailand from12 Nov.2008-13 Dec 2008.

We borded the East Coast bound Malaysian train and get down at Pasir Mas about 30 km from the Thailand border.During breakfast at one of the eating stalls close to the railway station there was a boisterous taxi driver who talked loudly to his friends around him and his voice could be heard across the street.( Typical Malaysian scenes)

The stall owner who make roti canai ( flour pancake) asked if we have any fear going to Thailand due to the current political unrest and spates of bombings in South Thailand.My answer is who's not afraid but life have to go on. Death come everywhere and anytime and we are just travelling.You can't leave home if you are too afraid to travel.

After our last Malaysian meal we went looking for a private taxi to take us to Rantau Panjang checkpoint and found the driver engrossed in a game of Dam Aji ( local version of chess game) under a cool shade of shady tree.

He was a thin man in the late sixties and led us to his worn down grey Proto Saga ( Malaysian National Car of the Mahathir era).I tried to wear the safety belt but the locking bar handle is torn off from the floor due to rust.I just smiled and said to the driver Malaysia Boleh ( in Malaysia everything is possible => a popular Mahathir era slogan often chanted by UMNO supporters (Malaysian ruling political party)

Immigration process at both boders are smooth and efficient because it is still early morning and everyone is on high spirit including the two fresh travellers.

We took the train from Sungai Kolok ( the last border town on the South Eastern border with Malaysia) on a second class coach with sleeper.All lower deck beds to Bangkok were taken so we had to settle for the upper deck beds which were equally clean and comfortable except for the climbing. No problem....anything goes on the road.It was an 18 hrs journey to Bangkok dep.14.20 arriving 10.30 next day.As this is a long trip we packed some foods for dinner, fruits and munchies for our al-kunyah menguyah ( munching) as Ramly use to say.

Picture above show the typical Thai train ticket.Sungai Kolok to Bangkok on 2nd class berth cost 907 Thai Bhat.On the road Bangkok here we come.